Contents

1. Contents
2. History of Ben Youssef Madrasa
3. What to see at Ben Youssef Madrasa
   1. The Main Courtyard
   2. The Prayer Room
   3. The Student Rooms
   4. Ablutions Chamber
4. Important Information about Ben Youssef Madrasa

History of Ben Youssef Madrasa

Madrasa means ‘school’ and the first school founded on this site was in the 1300s, though that building was later replaced by the one you see today.

The incredible place you find today was commissioned in 1564 as a place of learning by the Saadian sultan Abdallah al-Ghalib. At its height, it accommodated 900 students and was the largest Islamic college in the Maghreb. It contains over 130 rooms and students lived, studied and prayed in this building.

Ben Youssef was a vital place of learning across Morocco and Andalusia, spreading knowledge and understanding across the region. It wasn’t closed until the 1960s, and wasn’t opened as a tourist attraction until 1982. It was closed between 2018 – 2022 for restoration, and now it’s doors are open to its full glory again.

What to see at Ben Youssef Madrasa

The Madrasa is a typical Riad – square in shape with no doors or windows to the outside (bar the entrance), but opening in to a huge open courtyard with the rooms leading off of it. There are then lots of mini Riads off the main centre, around which the student rooms are situated, across 3 floors and totalling 1,680sqm.

The Main Courtyard

The Main Courtyard is the centre piece of the Madrasa, and you access it via a thin entrance way from the street. This process of entry, like in many Islamic buildings, is carefully designed to inspire revelation and astonishment in an unexpected opening of space into the main courtyard. it worked on me. WOW. The courtyard is itself is also centered around a large shallow reflective pool, adding to the space’s beauty. I also absolutely loved the symmetry everywhere.

The Prayer Room

Just off the courtyard to the south is the incredible Prayer Hall, equipped with a mihrab (which shows the direction of prayer towards Mecca). The decoration here is especially rich stucco, and utterly breathtaking again. Interestingly in Islamic decoration, calligraphy and shapes are the most common decorations and you won’t see any human/animal art as this is considered idolism. The most common shapes to see are pentagons (representing the 5 pillars of Islam) and octagons (representing the 8 gates to heaven).

The Student Rooms

The layout of the Ben Youssef madrasa contains student dormitory cells clustered around the first and second levels of the central courtyard. There are cells on the ground floor, arranged round a mini Riad, while two stairways from the vestibule give access to similar corridors on the second level. The dorm rooms are additionally arranged around a series of six small courtyards which open on both levels from these corridors.

I was really surprised by how small some of the dormitories were – those on the ground floor were the smallest, and could sleep up to 6! The rooms on the upper floors were bigger, and normally for the best students in the Madrasa.

Ablutions Chamber

On the ground floor, the eastern corridor from the vestibule also gives access to an ablutions chamber in the northeastern corner of the building. The chamber has a square floor plan with four marble columns upholding four arches, and the middle of the chamber is occupied by a square water basin, surrounded by a number of toilets around the perimeter.

Important Information about Ben Youssef Madrasa

• Opening Times: 09:00 – 17:30 daily
• Cost: 50MAD (10 MAD for children under 12), cash only
• Visit Early: The crowds here get overwhelming. I visited first thing in the morning in March (off season) and the main courtyard was still pretty full at 09:10!
• There is no dress code to enter the Madrasa, however, I do recommend dressing conservatively to respect local traditions.

What do you think of the Madrasa? I absolutely loved my visit, and it was definitely one of the highlights of my visit to Marrakech. Let me know what you think in the comments below! Stay safe and happy travelling!

As I pulled up in my taxi at the entrance to my hotel for the week, I knew instantly I was in for a treat. I love finding hotels like this – small, overshadowed by famous neighbours (La Mamounia), but utterly, utterly stunning. Easily sailing in to my top 10 hotels of all time – enter The Oberoi.

Location

My husband was in Casablanca, but was coming to Marrakech for his next set of meetings (one of which as it happens, ended up happening in Paris last minute so he had to dial in – I lose track of the man). I decided Marrakech was the place for me, and I boarded a flight direct from London.

I had initially planned to stay in a hotel central to Marrakech, but then I found The Oberoi. Situated around a 25 minute car journey from the Old Town (Medina) of Marrakech, it looked like something out of a fairytale. I couldn’t resist and in I booked.

Getting in to central Marrakech from the hotel is easy, with the hotel running a free daily shuttle and offering cars if the shuttle times don’t suit. It’s also close enough for day trips to the Atlas Mountains and forays in to the desert.

The hotel also offers airport transfers included within the price for accommodation so arrival and departure is also simple.

Accommodation

There are only 60 villas at The Oberoi, built in traditional Moroccan style with the famous red clay and having no windows to the outside. They are situated around a courtyard housing 4 villas each, full of flowers and greenery, plus a water feature.

The villa itself was spacious, comprising a large bedroom/living area, a beautifully ornate hallway, dressing area and walk in wardrobe, leading through to a large bathroom with separate toilet, soaking tub and the biggest show you ever did see. The accommodation was kept pristine, with daily room cleans and a nightly turn down service. The service was really attentive. As an example, on the first day, we both had our laptops in the safe but mouses (mice?) out on the desks. The staff left us 2 mouse mats and a note saying they hoped we weren’t working too hard!

I also absolutely loved the details everywhere, the sink being my favourite (not a sentence I often write). There was also patterned wood, carpet and fabrics in the room which were really beautiful. Another nice touch was that you can access the villa’s pool from both the main living area and via the shower, perfect for getting clean after a day on the sun loungers!

Speaking of the pool, the outdoor patio area to the back of the villa stole the show. It was incredible to sit and have breakfast at the table, and enjoy the loungers with our books before a dip to cool off in the pool. It was also completely private, in the traditional Moroccan style, in a closed off garden – a bit like our own private Riyad courtyard area.

Food & Drink

The food and drink at The Oberoi is amazing. There are three restaurants on site – Rivayat (Indian), Tamimt (Mediterranean) and Azur (lunch time by the pool area). There is also a cocktail bar, Vue.

We found Rivayat to be our favourite and were absolutely blown away by the menu in there – the Aloo Tikki and Black Olive Chicken were so tasty we had them twice. We also had such incredible service from our waiter, Imad, who was so kind and helpful.

Tamimt provided the most beautiful views out over the hotel garden, and the pool bar Azur served such a tasty burger – so you couldn’t go wrong with any choice.

In general we found the service at The Oberoi a level above, even for a luxury hotel. We both agreed it’s the best service we have ever had, highlighted by the fact that Mamdouh (who was in charge of the hotel while we stayed), was at pretty much every meal, talking to every single guest and knowing all by name. He was constantly asking for feedback which he actioned, and I was so impressed at the personal nature of it. I’ve never seen that same attention to guest satisfaction at every level of management before – it must take a lot of effort and is a testament to everyone who works at the hotel.

We also had a special food experience whilst staying at The Oberoi, as we visited during Ramadan. We participated in a day of fasting and then sharing Iftar in the evening to break the fast. This was held in the hotel’s central courtyard.

Amenities & Experiences

I’m going to start with architecture as an experience. I can’t tell you how breathtakingly beautiful this hotel is. Everywhere I turned, I felt like I was in a royal palace. Architecturally, it’s set up as a traditional Moroccan building – unassuming from the outside, opening up in to numerous courtyards (Riads) with rooms off them. I loved it. The main courtyard (pictured above by night) takes inspiration from the historic Ben Youssef Madrasa, built in the 14th century; one of Marrakech’s most famous historic monuments.

The truly special part was off the main Riad, with sweeping views down the garden, reminding me of a cross between Moroccan Royal Palaces and the Alhambra in Spain. The first time I saw the view it literally made me stop and exclaim.

The Oberoi’s gardens are also something to behold. Set up with beautiful symmetry, the views up and down the central part were ‘pinch myself’ moments every time I saw them.

As if that wasn’t enough, the hotel is full of intricate and beautiful little details in corners and colours everywhere. It also offers a large outdoor pool, which has day beds, hammocks and a bar that you can enjoy.

There is also an indoor pool and spa, with a nice sun deck next to it, overlooking a natural pond full of fish and turtles. We had a massage in the spa, and I have to admit mine wasn’t that great. They didn’t ask if I had allergies and I came up in a big reaction to the oil, nor did they ask where I wanted the massage to focus or what pressure I liked so I didn’t get as good an experience as I have in other hotels (but please don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining!)

Finally, as if that wasn’t enough, the hotel also offers a number of experiences outside of the hotel. These include tours around Marrakech, as well as further afield such as in to The Atlas Mountains or the famous Ouzod Waterfalls. We didn’t take any trips with the hotel, but I can only imagine they would be absolutely amazing.

So what do you think of The Oberoi? We absolutely fell in love with it and I plan to bring one of my best friends back here with me at some point in the next couple of years as I know she’ll love it. She saved my life back in 2021 and I promised her when her children were old enough I’d repay her with a special girls’ holiday – she wanted that to be ‘somewhere hot without a long flight’, so I think I’ve found just the place.

Stay safe and happy travelling everyone!

I’ve collated my favourite experiences in to a perfect itinerary across 2 days, though as the city is so busy and full on, I actually did these things across 3 days to spread them out and have some down time to avoid sensory overload! So whether you have 2 or 3 days – let’s go!

Contents

1. Contents
2. Marrakech Information
   1. Language & Time zone
   2. Useful tips for Marrakech
3. Is Marrakech safe?
4. 2 Day Marrakech Itinerary
   1. Itinerary Day 1: Central Marrakech
      1. Koutoubia Mosque
      2. Saadian Tombs
      3. Badi Palace
      4. Mellah (Jewish Quarter)
      5. Bahia Palace
      6. Jemaa el-Fnaa
      7. The Souks: El Bahja, Semmarine
   2. Itinerary Day 2: Jardin Majorelle and North Marrakech
      1. Jardin Majorelle
      2. Ben Youssef Madrasa
      3. Musee de Marrakech
      4. Le Jardin Secret
      5. The Souks: Haddadine, Cherratin, Attarine, Babouches
      6. Foundouk Tadlaoui
5. Where to stay in Marrakech

Marrakech Information

Language & Time zone

The two official languages in Morocco are Arabic and Moroccan Berber. Due to its colonial history, French is also widely spoken, and most visitors we encountered were French speaking. English is spoken in the main tourist areas, but much less so outside of the main cities.

Marrakech is normally +1hr GMT, however during Ramadan (when I visited) there is no time difference to the UK.

Useful tips for Marrakech

• You can’t buy Moroccan Dirhams outside of Morocco, so bring your local currency with you to exchange (to save on having to get cash out at an ATM for a fee).
• You will need cash, all bar 2 attractions in this entire itinerary only took cash, and taxis only take cash as well.
• Marrakech is a Muslim country so it’s important to be aware and respectful of local customs. If you’re visiting during Ramadan (as I did), many restaurants close and you cannot eat or drink in public.
• It is illegal to be gay in Morocco. I cannot speak from that perspective or experience, but please be mindful of it if it’s relevant to you.
• Getting around Marrakech can be stressful. Whilst the Medina area is wholly walkable, getting out further means depending on taxis and having to haggle taxi prices. If your hotel isn’t in the Medina, it’s worth checking with your hotel if they run a free shuttle and/or can provide you contact details of a known taxi driver.

Is Marrakech safe?

A lot of people worry about whether Marrakech is safe. Whilst no travel can ever be guaranteed 100% safe, I can honestly say it was totally fine for me. As with any major city just be mindful of your belongings as pickpocketing is common, and take reasonable precautions, including not walking along looking at your phone, which was by far the biggest hazard causer we encountered in crowded spaces. Motorbikes/scooters speed through the Souks, and we saw 3 tourists (all glued to their phones) knocked over, with one hurt – so please stay alert.

People worry about the hassling in the Souks, but I didn’t find it too bad. I wasn’t approached that many times, and a firm no was enough when I was and wasn’t interested. I also visited the Medina solo one day and wasn’t hassled. I just recommend being respectful of local customs and covering up so that shoulders and knees aren’t on show.

However, I do have to highlight poor Moroccan Health and Safety. A close friend who is my direct report at work went on holiday to Marrakech last year (2023) with a group of friends, staying at the 5* Jaal Riad resort. One of his friends went for a massage but a fire broke out and he was trapped in the room – he died, along with his masseuse. So please be mindful of health & safety here, even in 5* resorts. If a fire broke out in the Souks, I dread to think what would happen.

2 Day Marrakech Itinerary

Itinerary Day 1: Central Marrakech

Koutoubia Mosque

The Koutoubia Mosque is the largest Mosque in Marrakech, and one of the oldest Mosques in the country – dating back to the 12th century. Morocco is a Muslim country, and I actually visited during the Holy Month of Ramadan. There’s something very special about hearing the call to prayer ring out across the city.

Saadian Tombs

The Saadian Tombs are an historic Royal necropolis in the Kasbah region of town, where the ancient Royal Family of Marrakech are buried. Whilst the tombs are open from 9am-4pm, from 9.30am the line to view Al Mansour’s chamber can easily reach 1hr long or more. My advice is to therefore get there for opening time – I arrived at 9.15am and had to queue for 45 minutes (and I visited in off-season in March)!

Badi Palace

Badi Palace, translating as ‘Palace of Brilliance’ is a ruined palace in the centre of Marrakech. It was commissioned by the sultan Ahmad al-Mansur of the Saadian Dynasty (whose tombs we just visited) a few months after his accession in 1578, with construction and embellishment continuing throughout most of his reign. Today it’s nice to walk around the Palace and there are a few exhibitions to explore too. However, the Palace was badly damaged by the 2023 earthquake and as such not all of the grounds were open on my visit.

Mellah (Jewish Quarter)

The Mellah of Marrakesh was created by decree of the Sultan Abdallah al-Ghalib of the Saadian dynasty in 1558, outside of the walls of the afore visited El Badi Palace. It is historically a Jewish area, and during the 16th and 17th centuries, the Mellah was one of the main commercial areas of the city. The Jewish Mellah was formed when Jews were fleeing persecution in Europe. Today, 2 synagogues remain, plus a Jewish Cemetery, Mellah Market and the Spice Market. We really enjoyed strolling the area.

Bahia Palace

One of my highlights was this 19th Century Palace, made up of a series of Riads. In Moroccan culture, a house is built with no external windows or doors (save the entrance). Instead, all light comes from an open courtyard within, with the rooms all lying off the central, roofless opening. I absolutely love this and if the weather in England could survive it, I’d be trying it at home. Bahai Palace is made up of 5 main Riads within the Palace, and we loved them all. Be warned though, get here early or the crowds can be completely overwhelming.

Jemaa el-Fnaa

Probably my least favourite spot on this itinerary, Jemaa el-Fnaa is the main square. In the morning it’s largely empty, by lunch time there are animals like snakes and monkeys, and everyone selling everything, and by evening it’s full of food stalls likely to give you a bout of food poisoning. I found it to be the only spot I didn’t take any pleasure in visiting, but I suppose you have to see the main ‘square’ of a city at least once.

The Souks: El Bahja, Semmarine

I was a little worried about what the Souks would be like, but I needn’t have been. The Souks just off the main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa, are a delight to explore. Souk Semmarine is one of the main arteries of the Souks, kind of like Marrakech’s equivalent to Bond Street in London, full of colours, noises and smells. It can be a bit of a sensory overload, but in small doses it was pretty magical taking it all in.

Itinerary Day 2: Jardin Majorelle and North Marrakech

Jardin Majorelle

The Majorelle Garden is a one-hectare botanical garden and artist’s landscape garden in Marrakesh, Morocco. Created in the 1920s, it’s famous for it’s blue buildings and beautiful plants. It’s easy to spend an hour or so here, and definitely one of the highlights of a trip to Marrakech. However, be warned, you have to order tickets online in advance and it is HEAVING. Plus, it’s not in the centre of town so will be a 40 minute walk if you’re staying in the Medina, or further if you’re outside of the city.

Ben Youssef Madrasa

Full Guide: HERE.

Without a doubt my favourite part of my visit to Marrakech, the Ben Youssef Madrasa is special. Once a school, founded in the 1500s by the Sultan of the time, young men came here to study. Today you can visit the courtyard, mosque and explore the rooms that students would have slept in (they are tiny, and slept up to 6 per room!). The architecture is absolutely awe inspiring, I was gawping around every corner.

Musee de Marrakech

The Marrakech Museum isn’t a modern, interactive museum. The Museum is housed in an old Palace built in the early 1900s, and today it exhibits mainly art and a few faded educational boards. However, its appeal is in its architecture which is truly stunning, the fact that inside is an old Hammam which you can walk around, and that it’s fairly free of crowds unlike most other stops on this itinerary.

Le Jardin Secret

The Secret Garden lies in the heart of the Souks, offering respite to anyone needing to escape the bustling crowds. Home to an exotic global garden, and a traditional Islamic garden, it’s a lovely place to pause. There’s also a nice Café at the top of the tower in the garden offering beautiful views out over the Islamic part of the park.

The Souks: Haddadine, Cherratin, Attarine, Babouches

As I said above, I was worried about the Souks, but I had no need to be. I actually even solo explored this section of Souks and didn’t experience anything negative. This section of Souks is the main Souk area within Marrakech’s Medina. Here you’ll find the metal, lamps and lampshades Souk (Haddadine), Leather and Bags Souk (Cherratin), Kitchen Utensils Souk (Attarine), and the famous Moroccan shoes Souks (Babouches). The shoes were undoubtedly my favourite.

Foundouk Tadlaoui

A hidden gem to finish off the day is Foundouk Tadlaoui, just off a main Medina street. Recently restored, this beautiful courtyard is now a mini Souk in itself, home to an array of shops through its archways of traditional craftsmen and women. I loved the wooden box maker who was carving beautiful intricate boxes with his feet, the huge vases set up in the courtyard itself and the atmospheric carpets hanging everywhere. I have to confess to solo browsing in here for ages and haggling for a pot.

Where to stay in Marrakech

If you want an authentic Moroccan experience, then a Riad in the Medina is definitely a great option. Please just be aware of the area your Riad is in so you make sure you’re staying in a nice part of town, and don’t be taken in by Instagram – make sure it’s fire safe and a reputable hotel. I didn’t choose a Riad as I couldn’t find a central one I was 100% confident in (probably an over reaction due to my friend’s experience, mentioned above in the safety section), and instead opted for a hotel outside the centre of town.

The Oberoi Marrakech, my choice for a few nights, was out of this world – I loved staying there so much I even plan to return (which is rare for me). For other hotel options, there are a number of high end gorgeous properties just outside the Medina, including La Mamounia, and Royal Mansour. There are also a number of chain hotels such as Ibis, Novotel and Radisson and something to suit every budget.

So there you have it – what do you think of Marrakech? I really fell in love with the city and highly recommend it. I will definitely return one day to make sure I see the nearby Atlas Mountains and manage a trip in to the desert. Thanks for reading – stay safe and happy travelling!

What is Ramadan & what is Marrakech like during Ramadan?

Ramadan is the most holy month in Islam, marked by fasting from dawn to sunset. It aims to foster self-discipline, empathy and spiritual reflection. It’s celebrated across the Islamic world. During Ramadan, Muslims focus on prayer, self reflection and community. Muslims have five regular daily prayers, and during Ramadan, there’s a special night prayer called taraweeh.

During Ramadan, drinking and eating in public is forbidden. This is the same in Marrakech, and many restaurants close their doors. However, as it is a tourist heavy city, you won’t struggle to find a number of restaurants that stay open and most hotels also continue to serve food, drinks and alcohol.

What is Iftar?

Iftar is the time of day in the evening when those observing Ramadan break their fast. The Iftar is a feast, consisting of local delicacies and traditional food.

Our hotel encouraged guests during Ramadan to join in fasting and sharing in a communal Iftar to gain an understanding of the cultures and traditions of Islam. We decided to do just this, and are really glad we did.

Our experience of fasting & Iftar

Whilst of course a day fasting and experiencing Iftar in a hotel cannot be claimed to be totally authentic, I really learned a lot. Fasting was hard (especially when I had a coughing fit and couldn’t take water), but I did feel a sense of achievement and totally agree it required me to have self discipline. I can easily see how it enhances connection to oneself and the community with which you share the experience.

I also realised how important it is for those in my team who are practicing Muslims to be able to work from home, attend prayers and adjust their working hours during Ramadan. I do ensure my team are able to do this, but it made me even more appreciative of the need to ensure this happens 100% of the time.

I also learned a lot about the local foods of Morocco during Ramadan in particular, and enjoyed sampling them all. Here are some of the highlights:

• Harira – a delicious tomato and lentil soup. My photos make it look unappealing but it was so tasty!
• Baghrir – a cross between a cake and a crumpet, the delicious light dish is often paired with tea
• Mint tea – a cleansing and delicious version of a favourite
• Stuffed bread – Moroccans have a tradition of baking bread in a communal oven, a ‘Ferrane’. Small breads are then stuffed with tasty fillings – I had tuna and vegetables in mine.
• Chebakkia – sesame cookies in a flower shape are one of the most popular Iftar table treats during Ramadan in Morocco
• Ghriba – Almond cookies, which I went nowhere near but the husband loved
• Briouate – sweet and savoury filled pastries that normally come in triangles

Of course, there were then also many traditional Moroccan foods on offer at our Iftar feast including barbequed meat, cous cous, tagines and even lamb brains in chermoula sauce – we tried them and they weren’t awful, but also weren’t our favourite!

All in all, we had a great time learning more about the importance of Ramadan, understanding the Iftar feast and sampling a lot of dishes which were new to us. I certainly can’t claim to be an educated expert, but I’m really glad I had the experience and would recommend it to anyone who gets the chance to do the same!

Stay safe and happy travelling.

It’s me again, MTH, being rolled out for my regular guest post slot.

Hannah was livid with me. In December 2023, I organised a work trip to Japan for March 2024. Hannah booked the time off work and would come out to join me, spending a week to herself in Tokyo while I worked, and then we’d spend a week together winding our way to Kyoto. And then my client in Japan announced that the week I’d booked to go, they’d actually be visiting one of their sites in Morocco and so instead I needed to go to Morocco.

So I had to head to Casablanca. Hannah decided that instead of taking 2 weeks off work, she’d fly out to meet me after my week in Casablanca and we’d meet up in Marrakech instead for a long weekend. At least something of a last minute trip was salvaged, and we had a wonderful time in Marrakech – more on that from Hannah of course.

But before she joined me, I found myself in Casablanca. She’s called this post a canter around Casablanca, but it was really more of a hot and sweaty slow walk – I suppose that didn’t sound as catchy.

I stayed in the Sofitel. It was a nice hotel (though very purple) and a good base close to the city. The food there was decent and it was comfortable and clean. It also has an indoor pool so I made the most of being able to go for a swim each morning.

After settling in, I decided I should explore Casablanca. It’s actually Morocco’s largest city, and its economic/business centre. It’s right on the waterfront and home to Morocco’s main port, and I thought it’d be a waste (and Hannah would be annoyed) if I didn’t go and see some of the sites. Even though it was 28 degrees and all I wanted was to sit and relax.

First up, a 30 minute walk to Hassan II Mosque, the second largest functioning mosque in Africa. It’s absolutely huge and really detailed in its design. I wanted to do a tour but I’d missed the time slot.

However, perhaps even better, there is a Hammam underneath the mosque so I decided to book in for the experience. I was a little apprehensive going it alone but figured I’d regret it if I didn’t try. Pre Hannah MTH would have had an absolute fit at the thought of going to an underground hammam below a mosque (I’m not sure he even knew what a hammam was!) in a city he’d never been to, alone.

But post Hannah MTH figured he’s navigated literally dozens of countries alone, been in a few hammams and knows the etiquette, knows a few Arabic and French words, and felt like a massage was exactly what he needed. The massage was nice but shorter than advertised, though the hammam itself was pretty cool, with traditional design and tiles. Overall I’d give it a 7/10.

After that relaxation, it was time to tackle the Medina. I didn’t feel at all unsafe, but it did feel like an assault on my senses and afterwards I just wanted to sit in a dark room alone with no stimulation! My highlight though was the olive market as I do love a good olive, and bought quite a few.

After another 30 minute stint, I arrived at The Sacred Heart Cathedral which was another impressive building. It was built in 1930, but after Morocco gained independence it ceased its religious function as a Catholic church in the 1950s. It’s now a cultural centre open to visitors. I had a quick mooch around to get in from the sun.

I continued my stroll through the Arab League Park and enjoyed some of the street art along the way. The city is quite big to explore on foot and in the heat of the day and with 1.5hrs walking I was getting pretty overheated. Overheated being the polite word for a massive sweaty mess.

After walking through the park, I continued on to the impressive Square Muhammad V. The architecture is really impressive and I sat by the fountain with a drink to give myself, and anyone near me, respite from my sweating.

I then continued on to the Royal Palace, of which I took a photo but got seriously told off by a Moroccan security guard and responded with an eye roll and a curt ‘bad tourist, delete photo’. Of course I did immediately, not fancying Moroccan arrest as a travel tale I wished to acquire.

On to one of the highlights of Casablanca, the Makhama of Pacha. It’s a courthouse but you can visit inside and even I have to say it is beautiful! I had it largely to myself (other than a few pigeons) which was a nice surprise.

Finally, I finished my walk at the Quartier Habous, developed when Morocco was under French rule. A nice spot for a bit of dinner, plus some good value authentic shops and full of nice architecture, it was a great place to stop for the day.

My overall impression of Casablanca was that it was a nice city, but I wouldn’t choose to go back and visit again. I’ve been to a lot of Moroccan cities now and I think Marrakech is by far my favourite. I don’t think there is loads to see and do in Casablanca, and my day of wandering covered off most of the main sites. There were a couple of museums I’d have liked to visit but I couldn’t spare the time.

This year, I feel like I have travelled less than in previous years, but at the time of writing (June), I’ve been to Morocco 3 times, UAE, Sweden, Romania twice, France 3 times, Belgium, Dublin, The Netherlands and Portugal! Coming up I’ve a week in Japan (Hannah is not happy with me), Singapore & Malaysia for 3 weeks and a number of European trips. A job with travel is a blessing, but it sometimes does mean Hannah and I are apart for quite long periods. She never complains (just moans when she can’t come along somewhere she wants to go), and so I was glad to find her waiting for me in Marrakech… stay tuned for those adventures! Stay safe and happy travelling – MTH.

There is one thing about my wife which often drives me to distraction: her INCESSANT need for jaunts, trips out, exploration and adventures. I am MTH, but I am often a reluctant and moaning MTH. Around every corner she snaps photos, we get nowhere very slowly, I spend endless hours on benches as she bends down over puddles trying to take arty photos….and I can never just eat a meal as soon as it arrives, I have to make sure I capture it from every angle first.

But I must admit she’s rubbed off on me over the last few years. So when I went to Morocco with work I was straight out ready to explore….and of course to take photos of my food.

I stayed in a lovely hotel, The Sofitel, just outside of Rabat. Historically I would never have ventured further than the pool, but this time I decided to head in to Rabat and explore.

Within minutes I wished I hadn’t.

My taxi ride was hideous, the worst of my life in fact. My taxi was a death trap, They don’t do seat belts, the traffic is horrendous. It was noisy and awful and quite frankly I wish I’d stayed by the pool. I somehow survived and decided I may as well plough on with my plans.

My impression of Rabat, besides advising you should never get in a taxi there, was that it is very busy and hectic, yet also very clean. The architecture is beautiful and there were a lot of nice doors. Hannah likes a good door so I took lots of photos of them.

I may quite like doors, but as a general rule I don’t really like people. Not personally, I mean just big crowds of people. Hannah’s not afraid to tell people to jog on when needed, but I am too nice and end up siphoned off in to every shop being sold hats, sunglasses and faded postcards. It’s a talent of mine. So the Medina was an interesting and very stressful place for me, but I managed to see it and get a sense of it without actually buying anything. Quite the achievement.

After exploring the Medina, I took a stroll through the old town, which was actually very beautiful and I particularly liked the white washed walls. I also saw the impressive Mausoleum of Mohammed V and the Hassan Tower which is actually an unfinished mosque – there’s even a wall with lots of holes where the floor boards were meant to go. There were also lots of gardens everywhere so I took some photos of those.

As another general rule, I really don’t like the heat. Hannah’s a little sun baby but I have normally drenched through a T-shirt and am unable to breathe after about 3 minutes. So the temperature wasn’t ideal for a long walk – again though I sweatily persisted and headed to the coast to get a bit of a breeze as I struggled on to the Royal Palace.

To conclude my stroll, I also visited the Chellah, which is a walled garden on the site of an ancient citadel featuring Roman ruins & royal tombstones. The Romans really did get about a bit, and I found myself feeling sorry for the poor soldiers who ended up in cold Britain rather than here in the sunshine; it must have been real pot luck.

Now I may have moaned quite a lot in this post, and I haven’t even mentioned the fact that this trip resulted in a nice bout of COVID for me. But in actual fact I enjoyed my little jaunt round Rabat. 10 years ago I’d never have done it – this time I moaned to myself for most of it but am glad I did it. I discovered that Rabat is hot, it’s busy, its people are so welcoming, there are lots of nice doors, don’t get in a taxi, don’t go for a walk without sun cream on and don’t get too close to people and catch COVID.

Oh and the food was great. I took photos of it from every angle.

Stay safe and happy travelling – MTH.